FINALLY THE ENGINE WORK IS PROGRESSING

 The problem is that my oil pressure with a hot engine at idle was near zero and at speed was only 20 PSI. The cam bores in the block were beyond the Ford wear limit so my oil pressure was being lost at the cam. Oil goes from the pump to the cam and from there to the main bearings and then to the rod bearings. I have no idea how much, if any,  was reaching the rod bearings. The For 100E engine has cam shell bearings and uses the same size cam as the 93E engine in the Morgan.

 I took the block to a shop in April to  have it line bored so I could install 100E cam bearings. The shop did make the end plates and two bushings to support the cutter shaft in the last 2 months. I finally went and picked it up and brought it to my shop to finish the job. I was very fortunate to be able to borrow a portable line boring device and finished the cuts myself.

This machine clamps to the end plate that supports the cutter bar. The spindle is driven by a drill motor. The one shown ran too fast so I borrowed a variable speed drill to get the RPM down to about 150. This device has a lead screw that is connected to the cutter bar and advances it at .005" per revolution of the cutter bar. The cutter bar has to be supported with bushings on each side of the bearing being cut. So for the #1 bearing you have to have a bushing in the end plate on the front of the block an a bronze bushing in the #2 bearing location. To cut #2 a bushing is needed at #1 and #3 bearing. For #3 a bushing at #2 bearing and the rear end plate.

Here is a better photo of the machine.

Look closely at this photo to see the cutter bar going through the block.

The cutter bar. This end attaches to the boring machine with a set screw.

 

The cutter has a locking set screw and a height adjusting screw underneath. I made a V block to measure  the cutter height above the bar surface. The dial indicator is first zeroed to the bar surface. Simple math tells me what the cut diameter will be (if I'm paying attention).

The cutter.

DOORS

 I finished the interior by installing the door coverings and door latches. On one door the screw holes were all stripped out or had broken off screws in the hole. I fixed this by using a Bung cutter to cut some 3/8" dia. plugs and I drilled the old holes and filled with the bungs. I first made a template of there the holes were and then shifted the latch down about 1/8" or so and drilled new screw holes. This worked well.

INTERIOR

 Finally, after 4 months wait I was able to pick up the seats and door coverings. 300 bucks was a very good price I think. The seat squab will hinge at the front to allow the set base be a storage box.

NICKEL PLATING

 I wanted to nickel plate the steering wheel nut so I did some research and found it is dead simple. It requires white vinegar, salt, a 4 volt 1 amp power supply and some nickel strips available from:...you guessed it Amazon!! If interested go to youtube and have a look at "nickle plating". 

STEERING WHEEL HUB

 The hub on the original steering wheel is a zinc casting and it had started de laminating badly. 

Among all the parts I got was a machined hub to accept a modern style wheel. I decided to take this and modify it by adding a lid and milling slots to fit the spokes of the original wheel. Some tricky work but it came out very nice.

Doing this required removing the zinc from the wheel hub; not an easy task.

Machining the slots in the hub. Did the same for the lid and some filing to match them up.

I had to machine a fake nut that would hold the wheel to the steering shaft. I plan to nickle plate it next. The finished product came out nice I think.

REGISTRATION PLATE, LUGGAGE RACK

 Still haven't gotten the engine back yet so other project move on. I have renewed the registration plate and I had a new wheel cover made by a friend; also installed the luggage rack. I bought some oval head screws but found they stuck up too high due to the angle of the chamfer. I put them into the lathe and made appropriate cuts to change the angle. Better fit now.

The car had been registered by the previous owner as a car to avoid the helmet laws. I was unable to change that when I registered it. I'll have to live with the HUGE tag. The front plate is in progress.

PROPSHAFT INSTALLED

I installed the shaft and gearbox yesterday. I used this bicycle inner tube to go over the input gear and a sleeve glued to the propshaft. This was a perfect fit.  The RTV got smoothed out more before it was bolted up.