Thursday, June 3, 2021


I installed the shaft and gearbox yesterday. I used this bicycle inner tube to go over the input gear and a sleeve glued to the propshaft. This was a perfect fit.  The RTV got smoothed out more before it was bolted up.

Thursday, May 27, 2021


The new propshaft is finished now. I had to have the shaft straightened as it cam in with a bow; was replaced but the new one was bowed too. Anyway the clutch splines are cut as well s the keyways and the snap ring groove to contain the bearing. 


The support bearing is 7/8" x 2" and the torque is 2.375 ID nominal so a sleeve is required.

The gearbox input shaft or constant mesh gear leaks down the keyways and drips into the torque tube. That oil can pass forward and end up in the clutch disk. See my previous post to prevent this. It didn't work. I have been advised to get a short length of bicycle inner tube to fit the gearbox input and to make a sleeve to Loctite onto the prop shaft to accept the forward end of the rubber tube. This looks like a great solution.

I will follow up with how this works out.


Wednesday, May 5, 2021

new propshaft

 When driving I got a vibration at about 45mph. It has to be the dreaded propshaft whip that is so common with the F type Morgan. My choice is to make a new shaft from 7/8" dia. 4340 steel. The bar should come in by the end of this week so today I made a test spline to be sure I could do it; never done one before. It came out just great, maybe a bit too tight so I'll add a couple thou. of slop in the real shaft.

The Bulletin has several articles on the subject. I'll add a support bearing part way up from the rear but not at mid point of the shaft. Some of the articles talk about using 2 or even 3 support bearings but I believe one is enough. One works fine with the twin car 2 piece shaft and it has worked with my JZR also. The idea is to break up the harmonic frequency of the shaft and raise the critical speed of the shaft.

More to come on this as it progresses.

Saturday, April 10, 2021


I ordered new con rods from Small Ford Spares. They have redone the rods that now have studs and nuts rather than the bolts that strip out. With the shell bearings I should be able to take the higher compression that I'm getting with the Aquaplane head. The crank had to be ground down about .005" to fit the rod big ends and the job came out just perfect.

Now I am waiting for the crank case that is having E100 cam bearing shells installed. More on that later as the shells don't fit right.


Friday, March 19, 2021


 The rear drum/sprocket had many chipped and broken teeth. A new batch has become available through the MogSpares group so I got one while they were available. It arrived in 3 days and cost $253.00; a bit pricey but worth doing since I plan to do a lot of driving in this car. I may also get a new set of close ratio gear before it is all over.

Friday, February 19, 2021

UPDATE ISSUES- paint and engine

 The paint job had two bright spots show up on the rear body. I sanded too deep. It has taken quite a while what with catching Covid and cold weather but it is finally repainted and all looks great. More buffing to do to finish it up. The second photo looks bright but that is just the lighting in the shop. Down by the door it matches.

Next, I have not been happy with the engine. Low oil pressure, over heating, high compression. So the engine is out again and I will have cam bearings installed, hone the cylinders for more clearance and install new rods with shell bearings to better deal with the high compression head. I'm really glad I did this because I found there was some grit in the oil that did some minor damage but it was caught in time. This should all add up to a good running reliable engine that I can drive with confidence.

Sunday, October 18, 2020


 I had a morning with nothing to do so I made a wrench to remove the fill plug. Made from 1/8" steel plate. I drilled/bored the hole to the hex flat dimension then just filed the flats until it fit. Band sawed the outer shape. I'll give it a coat of paint next.